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List Price: $49.99
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The Honeywell RPLS740B has some key features I was looking for:
1. Compatible with compact fluorescent bulbs (this timer even works with electric motors).
2. Has the option of turning on or off at either a certain time or at dawn or dusk. It keeps track of the time of year so that it knows when dawn and dusk are.
3. Adjusts for daylight saving time automatically (although it may eventually be a few days off if they change the dates for daylight saving time again).
4. Keeps its programming and the correct time and date during power outages.
5. Has no batteries to wear out (more about this below).
These features let me set it up once and then leave it alone. Of course, it's easy to override it if needed. Just press the main button to turn the lights on or off. The timer will stay programmed and resume automatic operation when it is time to turn on or off automatically again.
Some of the literature on this product says that it has a backup battery to keep the programming set up and the clock running during power outages. At first, I was concerned that the timer might need to be replaced when the backup battery wears out. Even a rechargeable battery only lasts so long. I carefully opened the unit to see if the battery is user-replaceable. I was pleasantly surprised to see that instead of a battery, it has a 0.22-Farad super-capacitor. A super-capacitor substitutes for a battery, but for all practical purposes, doesn't wear out. I wish more electronic devices would use these.
As with any product that has a mountain of features, it takes a little time to read the instructions and set up the timer. However, the menu system is pretty logical, and was easy to catch onto once I had programmed a few settings. I don't even need the instructions now.
Since the timer has been installed for only a week, I can't really be sure about reliability yet. It appears to be well built, inside and out. So far, it works flawlessly and the time is staying accurate.
It is a little expensive, but it's the lowest-priced timer I could find that has the features I want and has good reviews about working reliably. Also, with the super-capacitor instead of a battery, there's no need to worry about battery replacement.
The timer came via Amazon Super-saver Shipping, and arrived ahead of schedule in just a few days.
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This switch is the Honeywell-labeled replacement for the Aube TI071/U. (Aube, a Canadian corporation, was purchased by Honeywell.) I own the Aube-by-Honeywell-labelled switch.
This is an easy install for a homeowner who is comfortable enough with electrical work to know why the wiring comes in different colors, and can identify which side of a circuit is "line" and which side is "load." Also, you must have a neutral (white) wire in the box where you are installing this, or the switch won't work.
The switch benefits from Aube's years of experience in designing programmable thermostats that are easy to use. The initial setup involves determining your local latitude and longitude, which can be determined from Aube's web site or from using Google Maps. (You only need the degrees [such as 45° N or 75°W], not the minutes or seconds, nor any decimals following the degrees.) The date, time, and location are entered, and your preferences regarding when you want to see the backlight, as well as whether your location is affected by daylight savings time. Once this information is entered, you can program up to eight sets of ON and OFF times.
The twist is in the "Solar Time Table" function. Entering latitude and longitude means that the switch calculates sunrise and sunset times for each day of the year, and those times are fairly accurate for your location. Therefore, you can set fixed on and off times for a program, or set ON and/or OFF to local sunset or sunrise. You can also adjust a time to be offset from sunset or sunrise, in ten-minute increments up to an hour either way. For my holiday lights, I want them to come on in the evening a half hour before sunset because our sunset comes earlier due to a ridge a mile west of our home. This switch allows that.
It is also possible to have the switch turn off the lights a stated number of times at random intervals for a set period (got all that?). This is touted as good for vacation periods, though I have not tried it.
In my experience, so-called "photo eyes" sometimes cause lights to come on during the day, or at times when they are not wanted. This switch will not let that happen.
It is remarkable that Aube/Honeywell built such a degree of flexibility into a small package like this. I think this product is very well thought out, and I recommend it.
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Installation was easy (make sure you have a neutral [white] wire in the switch box). Programming was simple; once you know to push-and-hold the main button for three seconds to enter programming mode, you almost don't need the manual at all -it's that easy and intuitive.
It lost a star because the screws it ships with were made out of very soft metal -they stripped easily and if I ever need to remove the switch it will be a pain. But as it is right now, it looks great and works as advertised.
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I ordered this when Amazon offered it for a special discounted price. I believe that the normal price of $45 is too high for the functionality that this offers. Like a lot of people, I would like an easy way to have my outdoor lights come on and off automatically. Normally the problem with timers is that the lights get turned on too early or too late at different times of year due to longer and shorter days, daylight savings time, etc.
This switch does solve that problem, allowing the user to have the lights come on and shut off at times related to sunset and sunrise. I programmed them to come on at 10 minutes after sundown and shut off at 11:30PM. The nice thing is I no longer have to remember to turn the lights on or off. You can also turn them on and off manually, which is good. There is a chart included with latitudes and longitudes of different US and Canadian cities, you can also quickly look your specific coordinates up on the internet.
The screen on the unit is actually tastefully done, and does not look out of place in the wall box next to another decora switch.
So why four stars instead of five? I have just a few nits with this product worth mentioning.
The size of the switch is quite large, and as you will have to retrieve the neutral wires in your outlet box (typically it's a bundle of white wires tied together with a wire nut) it is quite a tight fit. It does not help that the wire leads from the box are a little on the short side.
Second issue is that when the box is "on" and providing lighting functions there is an extremely bright blue LED in the lower right corner that is lit. This light is so bright that it's a bit obnoxious. The screen itself can be dimmed up or down with three settings but the blue LED is always lit when the lights are on.
Third issue is that the mounting screws that come with the box are garbage. I had to uninstall the box once and repack the wiring and the screws were already stripped with just the use of a high quality flat bladed screwdriver. Forget about using a power screwdriver. I ended up pulling the screws from a $2 outlet switch, they were much better. Considering the premium price it would not kill them to provide better install hardware.
All in all though this is a great product. It even has a capacitor backup to preserve the programming during power outages. Very nice.
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It seems like it should be so easy. Replace a single pole toggle with an electronic switch. Just a few wires to switch from one to the other, right? There are however pitfalls, and you can wind up ordering the wrong switch, without doing some checking beforehand.
Since I hate descriptions that don't help understanding, I'll try to describe the situation in the simple way that I understand it.
Think about 3 different theoretical electrical junction boxes: one that holds a receptacle ("electrical outlet"), one that holds a single toggle switch, and one that holds a light fixture (called the "load"). If you sketch imaginary circuits, you realize that each of these has different connecting wires.
The easiest is the receptacle (imagine a stand alone nonswitched receptacle). It has a black wire, the hot one, (line, source) and a white wire (I hate when they call it the "neutral," I like the "return" because it returns to the service panel ). Let's forget about the green or bare copper "ground" ; it's never part of the circuit, and is just there to return a few stray electrons to the ground.
A standard toggle switch is a little more complex. It's in series with a light fixture (for example). That means that the black "source or line" is attached. However the white wire is not attached; the second wire is called the load; it leads from the switch to the "load" (light fixture for example). It's usually black and white striped or some other color. The black is hot, the load is only hot when the switch is turned on.
The 3rd junction box is the "load" (light fixture for example). The 2 wires that connect to the fixture are the "load" of course, and the white one; "the return" as I call it.
So why the complexity replacing the switch? Well, look at it this way; you are replacing the switch with not just a switch, but with a switch and a load( the load is the electronic timer). Therefore, the junction box needs all the wires from a load (lightfixture)as well as those in a switchbox. Therefore, in addition to the black "source" and striped or colored "load", the switchbox needs a white "return" to send those electrons that power the timer back to 3 Mile Island or wherever they came from.
This is the part where the electricians are laughing at me, because they know that 1. The electrons don't go anywhere, they just do a 60 cycle dance, and 2. The white wire doesn't go to Pennsylvania, it just " returns" to the service panel after which it plunges into the ground.
However, while the electricians are laughing, you might ask them why half the switchboxes out there don't have any white wires. If there is one, it's in the back of the switchbox, attached to another white wire with a wirenut (return from the fixture attached to return to the service panel); you have all the connections that you need, and you can go ahead and order this switch.
If not, where is it? Who knows, maybe running to another load or receptacle box. Why? Maybe it saved the contracter 50¢. One thing for sure, you can't use this switch. Don't even think about connecting the "return" to the green or copper "ground"; that's why I hate calling the return the "neutral," it's really part of the circuit and needs to return to the service panel.
So if you're stuck without white "returns" in your switch box, are you screwed? Well not necessarily. There are other electronic timer switches that run off a battery, instead of off the line current. Check the Intermatic ST01 for example. The only downside; you will have to replace the battery some day. It's not rechargeable (remember no white wire).
So what are the important points here?
1. Trip the circuit breaker, and check the back of your switch box for white wires before you order
2. Don't mistake a green or copper (ground) for a white (neutral or return) and don't connect them.
3. If you don't have white wires in the switchbox, order a switchtimer with a battery.
